DIY ACRYLIC CARD PRESS: Deck Care and Repair
First off, since this kind of DIY project involves tools, I STRONGLY recommend that any minors ask for adult supervision and help if they want to tackle this project.
A quick recap:
This was one of many projects I'd been meaning to get around to.
The other day, one of my magician friends brought me a few old decks to try some zinc stearate on them, and honestly, the decks came back to life in an incredible way; even a lot of the grime on the edges came right off.
At that moment, my friend commented... "Man, all these cards need is a press, and they'd practically be new again..."
As soon as he left my place, my brain started hearing the tick-tock of DO IT NOW!.
😁
Materials needed:
Acrylic sheets;
Dimensions: Width: 120mm x Length: 150mm x Thickness: 5 mm
Price (including shipping): €24.07 / 10 = €2.407 per sheet.
In my case, I bought 10 sheets, since the shipping cost was the same, and the more sheets I got, the cheaper they were.
Cost for 2 sheets = €4.814, rounded up to €5
5mm bolts (€0.9), 5mm wing nuts (€0.85), springs (€0.8), and washers (€0.40) – around €2.95
Total material cost (€5 + €2.95) around €7.95 + labor.
Tools needed:
Cordless drill.
A wide-fluted, polished, and helically ground drill bit (a metal drill bit works perfectly)
Support board for drilling (a kitchen cutting board works perfectly)
Clamps to secure the sheets while drilling.
Needle-nose pliers (to tighten the nuts securely)
Assuming we have ALL the materials ready, the next steps are pretty straightforward.
First off, you'll want to create a template.
Something like this.
I'm assuming it goes without saying how to make a template, right? 😅
Just in case..., here's how you'd do it:
First, trace the outline of the acrylic sheet, then center a deck of cards within it and mark its perimeter. The holes will be drilled along the remaining outer edge.
Next, secure the acrylic sheet onto the template, and both onto a support that can withstand the drill bit (meaning, don't drill directly on an unprotected table).
Everything should be securely clamped down (you need to prevent any movement of the sheet while drilling, both to avoid cracking the sheet and for safety).
From here on, we'll use the drill with the bit I mentioned and run it at the LOWEST speed.
We'll just drill enough to mark the holes. This way, we won't damage the template and can use it multiple times (if you want to use it again; otherwise, it doesn't matter).
Then, remove the template, re-clamp everything just like before (but without the template), and finish drilling the holes.
The slower, the better.
If you notice the drill bit getting too hot, you can use petroleum jelly (regular or even scented) to lubricate and cool the bit.
Once you're done drilling the holes, it's time to assemble the bolts, and you're all set.
Easier than IKEA furniture, for sure!!! 🤣
And you're done!!!!
You've got your card press.
If you want to extend the life of your decks, especially your special editions, I recommend getting at least one of these.
As always, I'm delighted to share ideas with the community.
Greetings everyone, and happy magic!!!
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BONUS
This is totally optional and not necessary, but it gives a much more polished finish.
AGAIN, using threadlocker (a HIGHLY TOXIC product) and power tools can be dangerous. If you're underage, PLEASE ASK FOR ADULT SUPERVISION!
I wanted to add, for those with a curious mind (like me), that we can give it a 'more professional' touch, making it identical (or even better) than any press you might buy.
The first thing to consider would be the fixed nuts.
We should prevent any possible loosening of the nuts. Besides adding the washers (which already serve that purpose), the ideal would be to add a threadlocker.
As you can see, the threadlocker isn't a name brand, and it doesn't need to be.
It works perfectly as long as it's applied correctly and the drying times are respected (24 hours) :slight_smile:.
The next step would be to round the corners.
This is how I did it, but the smart move would be to do THIS FIRST, and then secure the screws.
To round the corners, we'll use a template. In my case, I made one from a piece of a playing card and used a corner rounder.
I adjusted it and clamped it tightly to the plate.
Then, with a permanent marker, I traced over the exposed corner.
Repeat the process on all corners, on both sides of each plate (about 16 times in total).
At this point, all that's left is to use the multi-tool to polish the corners.
Wear protection, both safety glasses and a mask.
With a lot of care, it will look something like this.
And like this...
As a final touch (more for aesthetics than anything else), I put some rubber grommets on the screw heads.
In the end, this is what I got:
Honestly, it looks professional. I'm certainly not going to sell them (I made 5 in total and gave one to a magician buddy), but if I did... 😂 😂 😂... they definitely wouldn't be cheap.
As always, cheers everyone, and happy magic!!!
Hey @Zeta, I really appreciate your contribution. I'm going to add a couple of my own thoughts to explain my experience.
While I initially started using the press to breathe new life into cards, honestly, what I use them for most now is making card gimmicks and occasionally straightening out a deck.
In my case, I got lucky and had some polycarbonate from machine guards lying around the workshop. Here's a photo of how the press turned out:
I found that just four bolts, wing nuts, and springs to apply pressure and keep the nuts from loosening were enough (they've never come loose while I've used it). The polycarbonate bends a little, but it applies enough pressure.
For anyone wanting a cheaper version, two pieces of wood and a couple of clamps will work, which I think many people might have around the house. However, the bolt, wing nut, and spring version is the best.
Something like this could work:
And they're on sale at Lidl this week.
A little tip for putting a deck in the press is to wrap it in paper, because sometimes the cards shift around. Here's a photo of what I mean:
This way the cards don't shift when you tighten the press, and it's a bit easier to get it tight.
This problem led me to look for a solution, so I designed and 3D printed an insert to hold the cards inside, prevent them from shifting, and allow for better tightening:
This insert along with some clamps also works for pressing the cards. The idea would be something like this.
Finally, since this was working out well, I got my hands on a flower press that a good friend of mine designed, and I 3D printed it:
This last one was more of a luxury item for me, but I have to admit, decks and gimmicks turn out spectacular with it.
If anyone wants to download and print it, you can do so from Printables using the link below. But be prepared for at least half a kilo of plastic (if not more) and over 30 hours of printing. Assembly once printed is very simple, but your printers need to be well-calibrated for the threads to work correctly.
Flower Press
If you download it, give Jorge a like – he's the one who designed the press. He and I are talking about designing one specifically for cards that would be a bit cheaper in terms of time and plastic. I'll keep you updated.
And that's my experience with presses. I hope this adds a little something to your magnificent tutorial
Your contribution, @cdiaz, is killer! I absolutely love it!!!!! It's a perfect addition to the tutorial.
That flower press setup totally blew me away!!! Now that's next-level stuff. ( 🥲, I don't have a 3D printer 😢 😢)
For my setup, I focused more on decks of cards (I actually put in some nuts that prevent pressing individual cards).
For single cards and gimmicks, just like you mentioned can be done, I use wooden boards, clamps on the ends, and some weight on top.
And the cards go between sheets of paper to keep them from shifting, as you also pointed out.
Thanks again for sharing!!!
Carlos
Thank you so much for showcasing your creations and taking the time to upload them here in this community.
You've already shared your deck press and a ton of other great stuff in other forums, but this platform really has the widest reach.
Thanks again for sharing your creativity, and a big hug from Mexico
What are the proper dimensions for the press?
Hey everyone! Check out my card press – I made it from wood, specifically from some flooring!
Man, tutorials like this are awesome! I'll definitely have to put this into practice to breathe some life back into a deck that's practically screaming for a replacement, even though we all know that once you find a deck you really love and that handles great, you're not letting it go for anything, haha!
Well, these are definitely going into my favorites; they're super interesting! 😊
Huge thanks, @Zeta 🫂🫂🫂
A huge thanks, José Luis, for your excellent new contribution.
And especially for the time you've so generously shared, putting together this detailed presentation so we can all make our own card presses.
Congratulations and a big hug!
I've been looking around on other forums, videos, photos, etc., and I've noticed many people do this:
1- Clean the cards with a slightly damp cotton ball, wiping down all the backs and faces.
2- Let them dry.
3- Leave them in a press for about 24-48 hours.
4- Apply a thin layer of talcum powder with a makeup brush on the faces and backs.
5- Let them sit for a few hours, and supposedly they're good as new.
Has anyone else heard of this method?
@Francisco Sotelo:
Wow Boky, I love your formality in this forum 😂 😂 😂 😂
Only strangers and my family call me by name.
@Francisco Sotelo:
Yeah, it's cumbersome because there are too many nuts, and it gets a bit tedious to take it apart and put it back together.
But my goal was, on one hand, to mimic the ones sold commercially (and it nailed that) and on the other, to try and improve it (hence adding 8 pressure points instead of 6, like the ones I've seen for sale).
This press is EXCLUSIVELY for DECKS OF CARDS since my design has fixed nuts on one of the plates, which prevents both plates from pressing together for single card pressing.
If you remove these nuts, it would work for loose cards.
The trick to this press is tightening it in the following way:
1, 2, 3, and 4. Repeat until you feel tension at all four points.
Once you notice the plate bowing, tighten 5 and 6 to adjust that curve, then continue with 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6.
Continue this way until you observe the curve forming on the short side, and then you'll need (you'll see it as you go) to add 7 and 8 to the sequence.
The screws you'll be constantly tightening until the end are 1, 2, 3, and 4.
5 and 6 will be the next most used to adjust the curve on the long side.
7 and 8 will be used to adjust the curve on the short side, and they'll be the least used and the last ones you'll need to adjust.
If you do it this way, I promise you it will press very evenly everywhere.
To keep the cards together and prevent them from shifting while pressing, in addition to a paper band, you can also use clear kitchen film (making sure there are no bumps between the press and the cards) or create a foam mold to hold the deck snugly so it doesn't move.
All the best, and happy magic!!!
I really liked the foam idea. I'll probably design and 3D print one in TPU/TPE just to test it out, even though the rigid plastic box I've already made works really well.
But I'm definitely keeping that idea in mind for some other projects I've got brewing. I'll share them here eventually.
@Banton:
Just because you can squeeze harder doesn't mean you should! 🤣 🤣
Once it's securely pressed (before it starts to irreparably warp), you should just stop 😅, young padawan 😂